Tuesday, April 19, 2005


Alan Hollinghurst ...and my visit to Jerusalem

I’m just starting the first chapter of “The Spell” by Alan Hollinghurst last night but kept on falling asleep. It must be me as this guy is rated very highly and even won the booker Prize for his latest book “The line of Beauty” in 2004. I have no doubt about his skillful and beautiful writing and I admired and love his earlier book “The Folding star” which was also shortlisted for the Booker Prize several years earlier.Personally I find homosexuality repugnant but I do not mind it much in books such as these novels by this gay writer. The Folding Star (Vintage International) hold a special place in my heart not only because it’s such a good read but also because I read it while I was on a visit to Jordan and Jerusalem.

I went to Beitulmuqaddis (Jerusalem) in 2002....ostensibly to attend a professional conference on Weed Science but in reality it has been my lifelong dream to visit this holiest of site for the three major religions of the world. It is the most explosive, politically charged and the most expensive real estate on Earth….If the world has a crotch…this is it…the center of the world ...no doubt about it…

I won’t bore you with all the details and hassle in getting the Visa to Israel bearing in mind that the only country in the world that Malaysian passport forbid it’s citizen to enter is Israel

…...first I flew to Jordan…stayed in Jordan and visited several famous places there including Amman, some prophets tombs,the great Roman ruins of Jerash and the obligatory visit to the dead sea ... and then I travelled by a beat up mercedes taxi to Jordan/Israel Border at Allenby Bridge checkpoint …Along the way the Arab driver played great Arabian Pop music by Amr Diab , Diana Hadad and Samira Said…...the check at the entry point was very thorough and strict as expected …but the funny thing is I did not even need to stamp my passport. They just stamped on a piece of paper...I guess the Israel authority already knows that not too many countries are friendly with them so they had this system where they check your visa and if everything is OK they just stamp on a special paper so that no record is left on your passport...

While waiting in a long line for entry I got to talking to an old shriveled Arab lady...She wanted to go and see her relatives in Haifa or somewhere...she mentioned to me that her husband used to have a big cigarette factory in what used to be Palestine once but when the country became Israel they were chased out and all their properties were taken by the Israelis... a very common and sad story ...

Right on the Israeli side of border after the entry checkpoint there were lines of beat up mercedes taxis again with Arab drivers waiting for passengers.. I took one and while driving to Jerusalem which is only about an hour away we got to talking and I asked if there is any chance of them getting back their land… he was really pessimistic about Arab future the way he said it..."the only way Beitulmuqaddis can be taken back by muslims is when Imam Mahdi comes down and help the muslims!!"...

Just right near the border we passed by an abandoned oasis with a few rundown buildings. Some with what looked like bullet marks and one destroyed mosque...and along the way you'll see the usual semi desert scenes with clumps of thorn bushes here and there ..and strangely to me some beduin camps...When I reached the city I did not check into my hotel right away but went straight to the old city to visit As Sakhra...the Dome of Rock...where our Prophet Muhammad ascended to heaven in Isra' and mikraj...with my bag and all (I travelled light)...the thing is the entry to the compound is guarded by a couple of old Arabs and if you're not a muslim you had to buy tickets to enter… and during prayers only muslims can enter...I found this demeaning as they make it like a tourist spot which it actually has become unfortunately .. I went in and very anxious to see the alleged hanging stone which was supposed to follow the Prophet when he ascended to heaven....there is nothing of the sort of course... no hanging stone but the place where the prophet was supposed to ascend to heaven was directly under the famous gold dome and this rocky site is fenced and around it are laid fine carpets for prayers...the interior of this dome of rock is very magnificently decorated with intricate arabesques and there is a small grotto, a niche underneath this rock where we can also say prayers...

Outside the dome of rock there were young innocent looking Israeli soldiers standing guard and you immediately know who's running the show and if they want to take over the holy sites they can do it anytime... the only reason Israel do not do this (yet) is simply because of the world political sensitivity...

Not a hundred meters away is the Al Aqsa mosque and again I was stopped at the entry and I had to recite sura al Ikhlas before they were convinced that I'm a muslim and allowed me to enter and say my prayers...The mosque and the interior is not as magnificent as the dome of rock and you can still see some remnants of dark smoke stains on some of the roof beams when that crazy Australian tried to burn down this place in the sixties...both the dome of Rock and Al Aqsa mosque are within one compound and it is a very serene place to be but I can't help feeling sad because you can see infidel tourists all over the place and rows of Israeli soldiers standing by the compound wall...you know that you're not in a free zone...

The retaining wall of the Al Aqsa mosque is of course the famous wailing wall…the last remaining part of the old Jewish Temple . Like the Muslims the Jews separate the women from men areas but on that day I saw no women worshipers but a few Jewish men bobbing their heads in prayers almost touching the wall surface. I noticed some white prayer papers shoved in holes and nooks in the wall and I had this urge to pick a few and see what was written on it but I naturally refrained from doing so...Fifty meters or so from this place there was a group of young American Christian pilgrims sitting under an old olive tree listening to a young preacher discoursing on some Christian topics….It’s a bizarre scene to see all these pious people worshipping the same god in three different ways and hating each others’ guts vehemently….If god has a sense of humor nothing can give better proof than this….

The old city is an Ali Baba of a place ..the Arab quarter is crowded and chock a block with souvernir shops and all kinds of other shops...complete with donkey carts and old picturesque Arabs selling all kinds of stuff….and fat white ladies and assorted tourists to balance the picture…I even heard some hindustani music coming out of some music shops beside the Damascus gate...

Just a walking distance away is the holy sites for the Christians...with the main attraction being Via Dolorosa a narrow lane complete with 14 or so stations of the cross…where Jesus was supposed to walk to his crucifixion and ended at the most holy site of all...the Church of holy sepulchre...I joined a crowd milling about and some were in a queue to enter the holy of holy… I struck a conversation with a professorial looking guy with gray beard who was also in the queue and wondered if I, being a Muslim can join the queue and see what is at the end there…He couldn’t see why not and intimated that he isn’t Christian himself but a Jew… I went in there behind a very solemn procession of nuns…. into the holiest sanctuary of all...the grotto where Jesus was supposed to ascend to heaven during resurrection...I did not know what the nuns were mumbling in their solemn prayers, heavy with tears as they passed the marble slab that marked the holiest spot , but the only thing I can think of when I arrived at this very holy spot was to recite a Muslim prayer for the dead...From Allah we come and to Allah we go....Innalillah hiwainnahirajiun...

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